I’m getting really close. I still need to cut the clip-ons, custom build an aluminum plate to mount the tachometer, temperature gauge and voltmeter, fill up the radiator. I also need to inject a little bit of oil through the transfer ports to lubricate the crank bearings because the engine has been assembled a while ago.
I just received the tiny Koso voltmeter (1.5 inch wide) and need to connect it with a switch that I can turn on when I need to check the battery’s power.
I may have to get one of those racing flexible hoses from France for the air box, unless I can find something here. If I crash and I want something softer to avoid any pressure on the carburetor and potential damage on the rubber intake. I’m probably going to race without it for now. I’ll know more after the first engine test.
I tested the water pump again, protected the electrical circuit with a fuse, checked all the electrical connectors, tightened all the water hoses. I’m probably going to clear a little better the water hose close to the variator.
I replaced the throttle cable 90 degree bendy guide with a straight one. The throttle cable is now running straight underneath the fairing along the frame brace with zip ties. I also installed a fuel filter that I didn’t have last season.
Ca va peter! (it’s gonna rip!)
Peugeot 103 Rcx
Ebr hydraulic fork
Tarozzi race clip-ons
Grimeca 17″ wheels
Bridgestone Battlax tires
Grimeca disc brake
Fournales oleo-pneumatic shocks
Bidalot 50cc h20 replica (ported by Remi)
Bidalot crankshaft 16mm
Fag C3 bearings
Pvl analog ignition
Dell’orto 21mm carb (maybe 25mm later after testing)
Bidalot racing exhaust replica
Bosch electric water pump
Giraudo clutch pulley
Giraudo engine spring
Equipe France rear sprocket